Pitt UHC Mongolia Program, Summer 2007

Pictures of Mongolia

2007-07-09T05:27:23Z

this is from our first week in Mongolia- we had class and an overnight at a ger camp about half an hour outside of UB

this is at Hustai National Park, the fieldtrip we took the first weekend we spent in Mongolia. Lots of hiking and enjoying the scenery.

Hustai Park is also famous for having the largest wild horse herd in the world.

this is a rather blurry picture from a show at the Mongolian National Theater, of course it was about the life of Chinggis Khan

This is a picture from Gandan Monastery, the largest Buddhist monastery in Mongolia. It is located in UB and was one of the very lucky few not to be destroyed during the Communist purges.

This is part of the mural of the memorial at Zaisan Hill, just on the outskirts of UB.

This is a picture of the city of Ulaanbaatar

This is from the weekend trip we took out to Kharakhorum and some areas around there. It's very easy to go horseback riding once you get into the countryside, and some of the group has really taken to it.

One of the best parts about the countryside are wonderful scenes like this.

This is a rather typical sight off the "roads" in Mongolia. The particular one shown here is from the long drive to Kharakhorum.

This is taken on the tall hill right next to Kharakhorum, very close to our ger camp.

Entrance to Kharakhorum and Erdenezuu

Inside Erdenezuu

a really great statue, one of many

more of the complex

Now: our trip to the Gobi

some really awesome cliffs

as you can see by Amanda and Ananya's excellent demonstration, it was incredibly windy

we went hiking through these mountains/big rocky hills and came upon this huge sheet of ice/glacier. Of course, when you are confronted with a glacier while in the Gobi, the only possible course of action is to take of your shoes and walk around barefoot on the ice until you can no longer physically stand it.

Then, we rode camels

hiked around the Flaming Cliffs for a bit (didn't find any dinosaurs though)

and visited a saxuul forest

As you can see, it's been a lot of fun.

Pictures of Mongolia remains copyright of the author tnichols, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Packing Suggestions for Future Students

2007-07-09T03:36:16Z

Allison and the UHC have come up with a pretty comprehensive list, but here are a few additional suggestions:

First off, does your project require you to go to the countryside or will you be staying in UB? This will determine the amount of nice clothes you'll want to bring (though of course you need at least one nice outfit), if you'll want a water filter and other necessary items, and what types of gifts you'll want to bring (your advisor in UB has slightly different taste than the herdsman you interview for an afternoon).

Second, ziploc bags! You most likely aren't going to eat out every meal of every day, so the grocery store becomes your friend. But wait, you've bought a huge cans of peas (making sure you get all those veggie nutrients, though of course you brought vitamins)! How will you preserve them? Plastic bag and into the fridge. You can get by without them of course, but they don't weigh much and can come in handy.

Third, extra socks!!! They will get dirty and disgusting quickly. You will not want to do laundry that much, yet clean(ish) socks are an important thing to have. Bring more than you think you will need. You'll probably lose some as well.

Fourth, if music is important to you, bring music! Also, make sure you bring things you like and a wide variety. It will be the only noise besides your groupmates talking for a long long time. You know yourself best, so think it over.

Fifth, books! You probably will not have a TV. You will want some down-time. This can be a great opportunity to finally read some of those classics you always meant to. However, make sure there is some coordination. Having repeat books and "the mystery book that everyone thought someone else was bringing but didn't and now everyone really wants to read it" is unfortunate. Variety is also good, every now and then you just want to relax with some mindnumbing action novel or vampire erotica. Again, plan ahead.

Sixth, realize that bathrooms on this trip will 98% of the time not be like bathrooms in the United States. A large percentage of bathrooms will require you to bring your on toilet paper and hand sanitation. If you must have your purell, stock up on it before leaving. It's easy enough to buy wet wipes in Mongolia, but hand sanitizer is not cheap.

Seventh, so you are vegetarian. You are not going to die; fruits and vegetables actually exist here. So do not think you need to bring cans of soup or something. Use that space for something else. Ramen is always available as well. There are two vegetarians on this 2007 trip, so if you have any questions I'm sure they'd be happy to help.

Eighth, mental openess! This trip has a lot of great experiences and a lot of really weird things. Be willing to get out there and push your comfort level. You don't have to like everything, but try it at least with a positive attitude. You'll have a blast, promise.

Packing Suggestions for Future Students remains copyright of the author tnichols, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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A Dinner We Won't Soon Forget!

2007-06-21T09:56:58Z

We were at a restauraunt in Ulaan Baatar, in a private room, waiting for Steve Saunders to arrive (this was to be our last dinner with our beloved consultant or whatever his title is), when we noticed 3 serious looking Mongolian men dressed in suits peeking into our room. At the time we thought no more of it than just some random Mongolians interested in seeing the oddly placed 10 foreigners eating in their local restaurant. Little did we know these were Mongolian secret service agents, with no ear things in their ear to give them away, but I'm sure they had cell phones or something.

About 5 minutes after our boy Steve walked in the room, surprisingly with the same men and another well dressed man he introduced to us as the former 2 time Prime Minister Elbegdorj (EB for short, kind of like Dubya I guess). Wikipedia him and you'll find that this is the big time politician in all of Mongolia, and he's running for office again next summer. He was the one who lead the country during its transition to capitalism and is regarded as the most popular politician in the country. (Though I'm not sure how he pulled that one off. The transition definitely did not go as smoothly as he had planned. With many Mongolian finding themselves in extreme poverty and many government officials suspiciously finding themselves with extremely nice cars) Needless to say it was a very interesting dinner and the Prime Minister seemed very nice and answered fairly well a question of mine about the Ger Districts. Since he is someone with a lot of history behind him and also a lot more politicking in front of him (hes only 43), we were all very glad to meet him, and we'll be sure to keep an eye on him in the future.

A Dinner We Won't Soon Forget! remains copyright of the author zmorris, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Mongolia

2007-06-07T06:19:54Z

So on our third day of classes at NUM we visited a ger camp in the countryside, but just outside of UB. We were surprised to walk into a larger ger and find it all set up for us to have class in.

Later in the evening before dinner we hiked to the top of one of the hills surrounding the camp. It was a lot higher up than we expected but I'm pretty sure everyone still had a great time.

Mongolia remains copyright of the author sculhane, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Beijing: First Impressions

2007-05-28T06:02:43Z

You know China is very different pretty much as soon as you cross the border. The geography and climate between southeastern Russian and northeastern China is obviously very similar, but the use of land and the buildings are very different. The old buildings follow a recognizably Chinese style, and the new buildings contrast sharply with the general disrepair of Russian buildings. The first full day on the train through China you could see the waterfields, with people still carefully planting sprouts at 6 in the evening. If Russia was a contrast of the colorful with the drab, China is a sharp contrast of traditional with modern.
Beijing itself is a perfect example. There's so much construction and so many new buildings that almost gleam through the dust clouds on Wangfujing street. At the same time, you can't go very far without encountering a historical site or older buildings with the traditional stone walls and tile roofs. Another seemingly ubiquitous part of the scenery are the many police. I'm still not sure if that makes me feel more or less safe, and how it affects the local citizens.
One of the nicest things to see is how everyday people enjoy their historical monuments and parks. It's not at all uncommon to go to the Summer Palace on the weekend with your family to take a nice leisurely walk and enjoy an ice cream, or to go the Temple of Heaven and relax in the walkway by singing or playing games with your friends. It's not a history lesson or an obligation, it's their culture and their home environment, and they are very comfortable in it. We have parks in the U.S., but I can't really imagine anyone grabbing a book and sitting on the steps of the Lincoln memorial for an afternoon to relax.
The city retains its color at night as well, which gives it a very lively atmosphere. However, going in search of true Chinese night-life is an interesting enterprise. Without a decent command of the language or a better knowledge of the city, it's easy to get sucked into a rather expensive tourist-heavy bar. It is disappointingly easy to find meccas of western culture, english songs, english captions, and english clothes. The modern style obviously must be Chinese since it occurs here in China, but I can't help feeling sometimes that much of it is a version of Western style not very subtly stretched into a pop culture frame for Asian youth.
The people themselves overall are much more down to earth than the Russians, with easy smiles and sometimes much more casual clothing (especially young childeren lol). You just have to be careful that a few bad experiences in a shopping market or with a dishonest driver don't ruin your perception.
China also has a rich and interesting history that's easier in some ways to access then Russia, but also more difficult. There are many signs in English, but a sign only tells you so much and not often many subtleties about cultural references or more interesting historical stories about individuals.
Overall China is much more colorful, open, and accessible than Russia. But they are both such different countries and cultures that most comparisons are completely unfair and pointless. China in its own right is definitely a sight to see, but to really experience "China" is something not all Westerns are able or even encouraged to do.

Beijing: First Impressions remains copyright of the author tnichols, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Zach's Impression of Beijing/China

2007-05-31T07:50:11Z

Beijing is definitely happening. The streets are crowded, there are endless buildings with very impressive architecture, and the only other city that seems comparable is NYC. Public transportation and bike access are great and I think some US cities could definitely learn a few things from the way things are run here. Preparations for the olympics are intense and I can't imagine how crazy its going to be here come this time next year, a fiasco at best.

Understanding the political/government system here in China has proved to be very intriguing and sometimes even disturbing. I've definitely learned a lot about this peculiar system.

All in all its been a really enjoyable and educational trip so far, though I can't wait to get to our final destination already!

Zach's Impression of Beijing/China remains copyright of the author zmorris, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Moscow: First Impressions

2007-05-28T05:39:05Z

Moscow seems to be a city of both incredible beauty and incredible decay. Even in their own right the huge apartment complexes are rather dingy, but after the fierce colors of St. Basil's or the Kremlin's many gold-topped cathedrals it's even more startling. The billboards also have incredible swathes of color, but the average buildings and people themselves aren't so brightly arrayed. It's an interesting contrast.
Moscow is also more European than I had anticipated, menus in English, the expensive mall, some of the pop culture. The food shows other influences though: sushi, Chinese-like dumplings, and of course the wonderful Georgian cuisine. The metro is lovely but very mechanical. Most stations are marble, and some also have chandeliers or stained glass, but people never look up. I suppose that's universal though, you take beauty for granted. The metro however is really fun to ride, just odd because people are very blank. No smiles.
Outside of the metro though, we've met a lot of very friendly people at Moscow State University. Their english is very good; it makes me feel bad that I know extremely little Russian in return. I know they don't really expect it, but in some ways I wish they did. I feel sometimes that people make too many allowances for Americans or are just too accept our ignorance. Really, I just wish the American education system held us to a higher standard that the rest of the world seems to follow.
Overall, Moscow is an interesting but intimidating palce. So many unfamiliar names and events, particular customs, and the language. However, many parts of it are still so very beautiful to the eye and ear. And in this case at least (and for the amount of time we've spent), that's enough for the mind.

Moscow: First Impressions remains copyright of the author tnichols, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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First Impressions of Beijing

2007-05-28T05:27:26Z

When walking the streets of Beijing, it is exactly how I pictured China to look and feel- if not even better. The culture is amazing. The architecture and the temples we have seen so far are absolutely beautiful. I'm curious if the fact that us coming the summer before the 2008 Olympics helped because of all the restoration projects to improve the look of the city. Aside from the older buliding in the traditional style, it's interesting to see the modern buildings with unique but distinctively Chinese designs. I really enjoy how the city is set up, especially with the lakes and the surrounding buildings. These smaller areas of shops and restaurants, as well as parks, help to make the city seem less overwhelming in size.

First Impressions of Beijing remains copyright of the author ntoney, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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First Impressions of Moscow

2007-05-28T05:21:01Z

When we first arrived in Moscow, we were moved surprisingly quickly through the customs officials and began our trek to the hotel. The check-in to the hotel was a good preview to how our communication with the vast majority of the Russian population would go. We didn't know much Russian, they didn't know much English- enough said. After getting ourselves situated, we decided to wander around and try and find dinner. In walking around the areas by the hotel, I found that the city was a lot different than I had expected it to be. It was a lot cleaner- and definitely a lot larger than I was expecting. When you tell people you're going to Moscow, you get a mix of opinions about the country. What I was expecting to find was largely based on these opinions of other people.

The city though, is dramatically different than the country side (Lake Baikal). The city is fast-paced and expensive with large buildings and catherdals as far as the eye can see. The country side has a more simple atmosphere, and the people are more willing to talk with you. I preferred the lake much more than Moscow. The architecture and the culture was amazing to see- especially when you are able to compare it to the exact opposite way of life in Siberia.

First Impressions of Moscow remains copyright of the author ntoney, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Beijing

2007-05-28T05:10:07Z

Beijing is...WOW.

It is truly unbelievable to be sitting in the midst of this enormous, booming, modern city, that has really only become what it is within the last 10-20 years. The people here, I must say, are overall much more friendly and enthusiastic than those of Russia, and I feel much more at ease here for some reason. In Russia, we all seemed to notice that smiling was a rarity, and while it may not seem like a big deal, it really makes a big contribution to the effect the city has upon you. In China, people smile--alot, at that--and it really makes for a much more positive atmosphere.

Of course, it is puzzling to me because while I feel happier here, I am very well aware of some dark undertones as well. Police are everywhere, and I still can't help but feel uneasy that in Tienamen Square, not a single sign memorializes or even acknlowedges the tragedy that occurred there. So, there is yet again, just as in Moscow, a contrast. I suppose contrast is everwhere, but these two cities certainly serve as great examples.

The history in this city is remarkable, and I love that the amazing buildings and palaces of the past are intact and in such great shape. Of course, this makes for quite a swarm of tourists nearly every famous place one goes, but it is quite worth the business to see such sites. And, most of all, I cannot wait for our trip to the Great Wall!

Overall, the experience here in Beijing has been incredibly positive--the people, the sites, the sounds, the food, and just the overall feeling. I can't wait to see how it compares to Mongolia...

Beijing remains copyright of the author istol, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Moscow

2007-05-28T04:59:02Z

Moscow was a quick trip--I felt like one second we were there, and the next second we weren't. But it was interesting, to say the least. It was such a city of contrasts--so beautiful, so ugly, so clean, so dirty, so rich, so poor, so modern, so primitive. One second you are walking amongst high-end, expenseive shops and buildings, and the next you find yourself in the midst of a bleak, soviet-style high-rise housing development. It was a strange feeling to be surrounded by such old, rich, historical sites like the Kremlin or St. Basil's Cathedral while trendy attired young Russians walk by. Russia is a country in an obvious, somewhat awkward transition, and it makes me wonder whether or not these vivid remnants of the past will ever be able to blend smoothly into the modern present. I feel as if this two camps are at constant odds with one another. Yet, the city is certainly humming with people, with culture, and with history. Perhaps this strange combination of old and new has come together in a way that works, or perhaps it is simply a matter of time before one side gives way to another. Time will tell...

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Amanda's Beijing Impressions

2007-05-28T04:50:24Z

Before arriving in Beijing, I had very little interest in China, even when understanding its economic importance. Now that I've seen big, crazy Beijing, however, I'm much more interested.

The contrasts between Moscow and Beijing are the first things that struck me. In Beijing, you can smile at strangers and it's not creepy. There are restaurants, bars, and general activity everywhere. Everything is CHEAP. There are SO MANY people! In Moscow, streets are often empty, and it's hard to find a reasonable restaurant you can afford.

Beijing still has many obvious problems. There are very poor people everywhere collecting trash and harassing Americans. Many people are trying to sell you something, but it's really more like begging. The city is very dirty, and it's been making me a little sick. My lungs feel clogged, and bug bites are turning into really nasty problems.

Furthermore, much of the development in preparation for the 2008 Olympics is somehow disturbing. The government is bulldozing much of "old Beijing" (read: the real Beijing) and replacing it with Western-looking structures. They've repainted the Forbidden City and other culture attractions, which makes them look more like Disney World and less like a serious historic artifact. I will be very interested to see how the world perceives Beijing during the Olympics. I have the feeling that the Chinese government will not be able to hide every problem.

The economy here confuses me. I see a lot of activity in Beijing, but the train ride through the countryside revealed a deep poverty right below the country's shiny surface. When I get back to the United States, I'm going to do a lot of reading.

Amanda's Beijing Impressions remains copyright of the author agregg, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Amanda's Moscow Re-Impressions

2007-05-28T04:39:23Z

It was good to be back in Moscow! Since I spent some time there last summer, my "first impressions" are slanted all over the place.

Anyhow! The city is large, fairly austere, and at first glance very unfriendly. No one talks on the metro, smiling person = foreigner, and there's no "please and thank-you" in everyday conversation. Evidence of inequality is everywhere. There are drunk school kids riding the metro next to professionals in $2000 suits. It's a harsh reminder that Russia has a lot of developing to do.

Despite all that, however, I'm still charmed by the city. I love the parks, the bizarre Soviet architecture, riding the very efficient metro, and short to-the-point conversations like:

I was even starting to get used to the hilarious "old lady knows best" culture: "Young lady, you don't want sausage. You want this one." And of course they're right. It was, however, pretty hard not to get irritated when Ilana was told not to sit a certain way. Yikes. It's hard to keep your pride tucked away THAT much.

Also, I'm glad to be shedding my "translator" duties. Few people in Moscow really speak English, so getting around can be a little rough. But we made it.

I'm nuts. I can't wait to go back.

Amanda's Moscow Re-Impressions remains copyright of the author agregg, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Cory on Beijing

2007-05-28T04:45:49Z

The fun thing about entering China by train is border crossing day: two six-hour stints on either side of the border getting your passports checked and your bags poked through and waiting in the train station. In the Russian station everyone (not just our group...everyone) looked down in the dumps: worn out, soggy from the weather, hungry, grouchy. There wasn't much food available, little room to walk around, the border patrol was full of sullen young Russians who looked more like hooligans than law enforcement.

The minute we stepped into the Chinese station, the atmosphere changed. Everyone around us was smiling, laughing, drinking. The station was much more open, cleaner; there were shops, there was food, even the ramen for sale was better. The women of the Russian train staff were cheerfully buying scarves on the second floor.

Beijing had the same sort of instantly favorable impression on me. The city's bright and full of life, the weather good and hot. It's easy to get around -- taxis everywhere if nothing else, though most of the cab drivers don't seem to have a clue as to where our hotel is. We're very near to the Forbidden City and Tian'anmen Square, which is convenient. People are generally pleasant and helpful, and there hasn't been as much staring as the warnings led me to expect there would be (aside from a group of high school students passing through Peking University snapping photos with their cameraphones and shouting "Hello! Hello!" -- the one English word everyone seems to know here, even the tiny two-year-old girl we passed in the Summer Palace). Shopping here is like a sport, temples and palaces are huge and gorgeous, good food is beyond reasonably priced -- it's downright cheap -- and incredibly varied. We like the eggplant.

Cory on Beijing remains copyright of the author ctamler, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Cory on Moscow

2007-05-28T04:47:47Z

Most of my preconceived notions about Russia come from Fiddler on the Roof and Chekhov. The former doesn't really apply to Moscow, other than the whole importance of tradition and history thing. First impressions of any city on a diet of sleeplessness and cold rain are bound to be at least a little unfavorable; our hotel was far from centrally located, and the metro station hard to find. I get the feeling that it isn't easy to navigate the city if you're at all removed from the hub.

Once you're in the city proper, though, things are different. Seems there's something to look at around every corner: churches with swirled roofs like chocolate kisses, statues of Lenin, monuments, government buildings. I'd heard vaguely of the Kremlin before but didn't know what it was -- interesting to think that Moscow was once just what was bounded within those red walls.

Stray dogs are abundant, store clerks often impatient with pointing and broken Russian-English hybridizations, and cars don't stop for pedestrians. You have potato, sour cream, dumpling, you make good Russian meal. I think I'm a lot better at reading Cyrillic now.

Cory on Moscow remains copyright of the author ctamler, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Suzie's Beijing Impression

2007-05-28T04:01:17Z

Beijing was also huge compared to what I had pictured in my mind. While in the Summer Palace we were on top of a hill looking out and the city just seemed to stretch on and on in all directions. Beijing definitely seems more upbeat than Moscow and everyone is always trying to sell you something. One thing which I found really interesting was how much history you are able to see throughout the entire city of Beijing. You'll be driving around on different streets and all of a sudden a palace or a pagoda will pop up. The city definitely seems to be moving at a fast pace and so far I have loved everything about Beijing.

Suzie's Beijing Impression remains copyright of the author sculhane, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Suzie's Moscow Impression

2007-05-28T04:01:47Z

Moscow was initially a lot bigger than I expected. The architecture was amazing and all the churches almost seemed out of place with all their bright colors, like a castle picked up from disneyland and transported to Russia. I was also surprised by how nice most of the people were, whether it was the old man I met on the plane, the students who helped us out with everything or the women who ran the dining car on the train.

Suzie's Moscow Impression remains copyright of the author sculhane, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Updated Itinerary

2007-05-10T22:09:52Z

May 12: Meet at Delta Ticket Counter no later than 12 (noon). We will check in as a group.

Flying Delat Airlines Flight 636 to JFK – transfer to Aeroflot 0316 to Moscow SVO

May 13: Arrive Moscow SVO – transfer to Ostankino Hotel - 29, Botanicheskaya Street

May 13-15: Moscow

May 15: Depart Moscow at 23:34 on Train #10 to Irkutsk

May 19: Arrive Irkutsk, transfer to Lake Bakal Home stays

May 22: Depart Irkutsk at 08:54 on Train #20 for Beijing

May 25: Arrive Beijing at 05:20 transfer to Dongjiaominxiang Hotel
http://www.beijinghotelchina.com/dongjiaominxiang/hotel.html

May 27: Dinner with Councler Xu – 6pm – Guilin Restaurant

May 28: Dinner with Bill and Eliot Bikalas

June 2: Depart Beijing at 07:30 on Train #23 for Mongolia

June 3: Arrive UB at 13:15 transfer to apartment
Apartment No. 96-98 of your Building 19 in District 13
The apartment is behind the Hazara Restaurant and Wrestling Palace

June 4: Classes begin at National University of Mongolia

June 22: Last day of Classes at NUM, begin internships/research projects

June 29: Last day to have mail sent to you from the US
Mail to: Your Name
c/o American Center for Mongolian Studies
CPO Box 695, Ulaanbaatar-13, Mongolia

Aug 3: You MUST be in Mongolia by Friday at noon for our Farewell Reception/Meeting with Ambassador etc.

Aug 9: Depart UB at 07:45 Aeroflot #0564 to Moscow

Updated Itinerary remains copyright of the author ctamler, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Itinerary

2007-03-22T01:28:20Z

May 12: fly to Moscow from Pittsburgh
May 12-15: Moscow
May 15-20: on train
May 20-22: Irkutsk
May 22: depart Irkutsk
May 23: arrive UB
May 24: depart UB for Beijing
May 25-27: Beijing
May 28: train Beijing to Hohhot (12 hours)
May 29: arrive Hohhot
May 29-31: Inner Mongolia
May 31: Hohhot to Erdenhot, Erdenhot to UB
June 1 or 2: arrive UB
June 2-23: coursework at the National University of Mongolia, meetings, field trips
June 23-August 9: independent study/internship
August 9: depart UB to Moscow to Pittsburgh

Itinerary remains copyright of the author ctamler, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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